Exploring the Unexplored Side Of Me – Trekking – Part 3

Aug 11, 2024 Sunday – Satsar Camp (सतसर)

After 1 to 2 days, we all got used to the daily schedule. It always amazes me how we adapt to situations, and how those situations eventually become part of our lifestyle (and in case one doesn’t adapt, they really should). Take my own example: before coming on this trek, I used to wake up between 8 or 9 o’clock in the morning. I do wake up early, before 6 AM, when I go for a cycle ride or an early morning run, but on average, I would wake up around 8:30 AM at home. Here, after joining the camp, our day started around 4 or 5 o’clock in the morning, and we all adjusted to that. That day began with black tea, as I decided to avoid regular tea. For breakfast, we had puri bhaji, which was super delicious. I wasn’t that hungry in the morning, so I took a few bites from a friend’s plate & eventually packed it as my lunch.

When everyone came outside the tent, post drill, we started walking around 7.30 in the morning. Within few minutes we could see a glacier which was massive & one of the main crucial task was to cross it. Surface was slightly slippery so we were careful. Some of us went pretty quickly, others struggled while crossing it. Our trek guides gave us helping hand time to time , also our trek buddies who were ahead they waited patiently & helped the struggling souls. It was team effort & we were able to cross the glacier in span of 15-20* minutes. We took a small break & started walking again. Total distance for the day was 12kms. In the morning the weather was clear but after 3.5 hours we thought it will rain & it did eventually.

After crossing the glacier, the road was mostly flat but super scenic. On the way we could see Gurez Valley & Nanga Partbat which is 9th highest mountain on the earth. Walking on lush green with mixture of muddy patch along with the constant mountain view was serene & sheer delight. Air was fresh & we were at peace. Around 10.30 we could feel the intensity of wind & we started facing the music of strong headwind which was fun initially but after sometime we could see the possibility of rains & around 11 o’ clock it started drizzling. Now it was time to use our poncho. We were carrying it for 3 days, finally it was their time to join the game. We helped each other with poncho & bag adjustment & started walking. After few minutes it started raining in full force, it wasn’t that heavy but enough to get us wet. We could see a maggi point & Kashmiri local, a tall guy told us to use the tent , we won’t be charged (तम्बू में आओ कोई शुल्क नहीं है). I, kk Aarti, Krisha ,Neelam, Gaja, Abhishek, Avinash, Ojas were together at that time & we all went in. Few minute later other trekkers group Indiahikes as well joined the game. There were 15-20 people sitting comfortably, doing nothing, waiting for the rain intensity to reduce. To pass the time & we were hungry as well, we ordered double omlette, kahwa. Some of our other trek buddies, were in the another tent which was next to us. We were in the tent for 30* minutes. Our trek guide told us that we should get going as situation will be the same or if we waited too long the journey ahead will be challenging.

Before going in tent I checked on my strava app about the distance covered it was showing 9kms. So 3 kms to called the day off. We started walking & next 1.5-2kms was challenging because.

1. 30 minutes break helped us to cool down & we had to recharge ourself again with walking
2. It was raining & that was just a gist of Kashmir rains but it was more than enough

We were shivering while walking as it was raining continuously , which it did for sometime & there was no other option but to kept moving forward. It was super cold. After few minute it stopped raining. Some of us removed their poncho. The road was mix of flat & some boulders to cross the path. By the time we reached spot where there was nice place to sit along with nearby water source & some of us started having lunch as it was past 1:45. Some of us including me was about to reach. I told guides let’s take a break for 5 minutes & then we can continue. Then Tarikh & Saddam said no we must not wait let’s keep moving. I told them at least I am not used to walk on boulders you guys are, taking a break for 300 seconds will do no harm. Some of us started having lunch, it won’t be right to disturb their space/zone. Then both of them said who ever wanted to eat they can other can walk one of them will wait. Their behaviour looked ambiguous. The whole conversation lasted for 5-7 minutes then we said chuck it let’s continue & after walking for 15 minutes we reached the campsite around 2 o clock. I think that day, that moment they just wanted to go to the tent & chill. We also didn’t stretch the topic & went to our respective tents.

Mr. Harinder was the camp incharge. He welcomed us & briefed us about the camp facilities. Some of us had lunch at the campsite. After changing to new set of clothes I was roaming barefoot for sometime. He told me not to do it at least on Satsar campsite as it’s one of the coldest in the entire trek & weather changes in fraction of seconds. I decided listen to him & I could feel coldness & slightly numbness on my feet. I wore socks and sandals at the time of walk. Harinder told us whoever interested they can visit the Satsar lake & told us to give the count. Gaja & Sunil Paik were ready & started asking others. Most of us told they spend time at campsite only. Initially I was also hesitant as I didn’t want to wear shoes again (कंटाळा येण शूज घाला परत). Thanks to Gaja I changed my mind & may be because carpe diem motto I joined both along with KK & Pawar. Six of us including Saddam ( only he knew the route) decided to go. It was 30 minutes hike one way.

We got ready & after having our tea, 5 of us were following Saddam’s footsteps. I decided to wear jacket & gloves as weather was unpredictable. Also carried head torch along with hiking pole & one water bottle. Walking without our backpack was a relief. After a short hike we reached the Satstar lake post 4.30. Saddam warned us about the local dogs & told to stay away so I was controlling not to touch any of them in case if I saw any. They were barking from distance & I was glad that distance was maintained. Initially we didn’t got a clear view of the lake as it was all foggy, but within 10 minutes, we got a clear view & what we saw was spectacularly beautiful lake. After a few minutes, the view was covered & vanished in the fog. Weather changes in fraction of seconds that was one of the learning lessons I got. We also got a company of small goat on the hike which made the hike fun. Gaja & Sunil Paik went down and climbed up on the other side. Sunil chose to stay on the ground while Gaja quickly climbed a large rock. I felt it was slighly risky spot, but I admired his courage. We took pictures of them from a distance, but it only lasted a minute because the fog quickly returned. After that, they came back. After spending time on the hill, watching the beautiful Satsar lake & clicking countless photos & videos¹ we decided ( actually Saddam suggested) to go back to the camp. While going back we reached within 15 minutes. That was again a mystery which I tried not to think. I can’t thank Gaja enough for initiating & pushing the idea, (which motivated me) & resulted in us going on a beautiful hike.

We came back around 5.30, after which we had soup which was indeed refreshing. For dinner, we had rice, poli, bhaji & amazing gulab jamun. We went to sleep early, around 8.15 & I think it rained for a while during the night.

Aug 12, 2024 Monday – Gangabal Camp (गंगबल)

We started our day around 5.40.in the morning. Every one got ready on time, filled our water supplies bottles, hydration pouch & we started our journey towards Gangabal lake. The distance for the day was 9 to 10 kms. We left the campsite around 7.30 in the monring. Weather was clear & there was no signs of the rains. Road was mostly flat, because of which our pace was decently fast. Whenever we got the time we used to take the break in between, recharged ourselves by giving each other with dry fruits , sweets which was energy booster.

After walking for around 3.5 hours , including flat sections & a climb upto Zaj/ Zach pass (जझपास) we finally reached the top of the hill, we could see the Mount Harmukh for few seconds as there was fog everywhere & two lakes Nandkhol & Gangabal. We waited on the hill top for sometime, we got clear view for few seconds & then the descend began. It took approximately 2 hours to get down. We could see the campsite at the time of descending but it was very far. One of the highlights of the Gangabal basecamp was, that once you started coming down, you could see the campsite all the way, but it would take around 2 hours to reach, to the camp depending on one’s speed.

Around 2 o clock we completed the long descend stretch & decided to visit the lake first & then to our camp for the day. It took another 15-20* minutes to reach at the lake & it was beautiful. We took out our bags, cameras & captured countless photos. My phone battery was less than 5% but it survived the day & I could capture some of the pics & was also able to do the video recording.² After spending good amount of time at the lake, around 3 o clock , we went back to the base camp & called the day off. Rest of the day went in packing, re packing, roaming around in the campsite. We had our welcome drink , tea & snacks in the evening , followed by the dinner.

We decided to sleep early as next day we had to leave around 5.30 in the morning.

Aug 13, 2024 Tuesday – Naranag Village (नारनाग)

Like every other night, I slept well last night too. I got up at 3:30 in the morning & by then, most people in our tent were already awake. We had tea around 4 o clock & for the breakfast we had poha. We took our packed lunch – Aloo Pulao + Soya. Post routine drill, we left the campsite & started walking around 5.30 in the morning. It was pitch dark, & most of us used our head torches, which turned out to be quite useful. It was cold, so I was wearing a base layer, a down jacket, a t-shirt, and track pants. Many of us covered themselves in 1-2 layers of clothing while walking. Initially we were going at slow pace but after 30-35* minutes, after sunrise our pace increased as we could see the road clearly. (checkout to know more)³

Today was all about descending , a long stretch which would have take another 5* hours subject to Individual’s speed. Around 6.45- 7 o clock we reached to the military check post. Army personnel welcomed us & congratulated for the trek attempt. After basic identity verification, they checked our bags. We just opened them, & we were good to go, as the Army authorities didn’t ask us to take out our belongings entirely. Only Dipangshu’s bag was fully inspected & he had to unpack everything. One of the reason for the bag inspection was that, during orientation, we were told that in a previous group, they found medicines made in Pakistan, which is why Army authorities started checking bags. We were in the Checkpost for 15-20* minutes, they made us very comfortable we talked with them, some of us used the nearby restroom , some of us filled the water bottles, they even gave permission to click pics (not the Checkpost) of the surroundings & gave us best wishes for the journey ahead.

We started walking, the road was a mix of mud, boulders, & some slippery surfaces, all surrounded by a beautifully scenic view. After walking for around two hours with breaks in between, we all gathered at Maggi Point at quarter to nine. It was an aesthetically beautiful wooden house. (Click to see the video) We sat outside, and some of us had salt tea, Kahwah, & Kashmiri bread, which was sweet (just like me😎). I tried a few sips of the salt tea, which had a kind of weird taste. I think it’s something one needs to develop a taste for.

Total distance for the day was approximately 14-16kms. Post 9am , everyone walked at their own pace. Some of us were walking solo, while others were in groups. It was a long walk, & after a while, it became tiring—it felt like a never-ending road. I’ve always struggled, especially when crossing boulders & going downhill, & that day was no exception. I slipped countless times, & Ashutosh who accompanied me on most of the path, witnessed it. He walked ahead while I followed, and every time I slipped, I could see his concern. There were a few patches where I twisted my left ankle pretty badly. I had to pause for few minutes to settle down before resuming my walk. I always admired KK, Priyanka, Pranav, Ronak, Abhishek, Ojas, Gajanan (aka Gaja) & many others for the way they navigated the boulders and walked downhill—it was a delight to watch, so efficient and smooth. Pranav and KK tried their level best to teach me the technique, but it didn’t help much; I still struggled. I understood it but implementing it was challenging, but I enjoyed the whole experience. It’s all part of the game & one has to experience it in order to learn. I believe I need to do more treks to overcome this.

I paused at about quarter to ten; most people were in front of me, with very few at the back. There was a faint glimpse of the base, and I knew that the walk would come to an end once we reached the ground, which would be in two hours* at most. I sat on the ground, crying and yelling in a low voice as I became emotional and felt a range of feelings. I didn’t want the journey to end. A part of me asked, “What should I do now?” “What comes next?” I had no desire to return. We would not be able to see this view starting tomorrow. At that point, one of the guides, Tarikh, arrived and accompanied me. I communicated my feelings to him, he said ‘किस्मत वालों को ऐसा नजारा मिलता है’. (Lucky people get such a view) & we both started walking. I walked very slowly, one step at a time, and decided to focus on the route ahead, as there were still a couple of hours to reach the ground. While descending, many mules also used the same route. Sometimes we had to go off track, climbing a few steps away to save ourselves, because even a feather light touch from them could cause us to lose our balance, which was the last thing we wanted. The guides with them used to whistle and say, “जगा दे दो” (move aside). Some mules were mischievous & deliberately came very close. Occasionally, the space became cramped for a few minutes but in the next moment we were good to go as road was clear.

On the way, we saw many locals and some foreigners who had come for trekking, morning walk. While descending, I met a group of two to three young Kashmiri men. As we walked, they asked me, “Brother, did you like Kashmir?” I said yes. They asked, “Did you feel threatened by any locals? Did anyone point a gun at you?” I replied no and told them that people were kind. They then said one shouldn’t believe the fabricated picture portrayed by the media. I told them that one should visit the place and experience it, and we wished each other good luck as we moved ahead. Pranav and Sai were a few steps behind me. Pranav asked what had happened and if everything was fine. I told him about the conversation and assured him that there was nothing to worry about.

Around 11:48, we reached the ground. (checkout the videos)⁴ We clicked the mandatory pictures outside the gate. When I saw KK, I went and hugged him; Kishor is like my elder brother, & I thanked him once again for letting me know about this wonderful trek. Some of us who reached early sat and relaxed. We congratulated each other for completing the expedition. It was time to return to the base camp. Three cars were to take us back to the base camp like they did on August 8th, the 1st day of the trek. Before that, we visited Shiv Mandir, which was a few steps away. We went and took darshan. On the way, we entered Kheer Bhawani Mandir; it’s a Devi Durga Mandir and it was very spacious, pretty, and huge. There was a Punjabi/Sikh family doing bhandara service, and some of us sat there and had delicious food. It was almost 2 o’clock when we reached there. I didn’t eat because I wouldn’t have been able to finish the packed lunch. We left around 2:30 in the afternoon from the Mandir premises. We reached the base camp in 2.5 hours. Many of us slept in the car, while some of us started using our mobile phones as we regained network connectivity. After reaching the base camp, some of us had lunch. Dipangshu, Venkat Shiva, and his son Ronak left on the same day. We spent our time relaxing at the base camp. Some of us washed their clothes. After six days, I took a bath, & it was indeed refreshing (I equally enjoyed not taking a bath the entire trek, which is why I love road trips.). Even the toilet seat, jet spray, and kitchen sink tap felt like a luxury. We interacted with the group that was planning to leave for the trek the next day. I had a chance to meet new faces who instantly became friends. Some of us shared our trek experiences with them. In the evening, we called our families & friends to tell them about the successful completion of the trek, they were equally happy🙏.

We had dinner around 7:30-8:00 in the evening. That night, we had the felicitation ceremony. We all gathered for the certificate distribution. The batch next to us joined the celebration.They seemed to be more excited than us. That night I slept around 10:30 PM. The next day, we had tea and breakfast, post which we decided to check out around 10 o-10:30* in the morning. After completing the exit formalities, such as filling out the feedback form, we thanked the camp leader & their staff for organizing the wonderful trek, & all the arrangements , facilities and left the campsite with countless memories.

Things I learned

• Respect the mountains and nature.
• The weather is unpredictable; it can change in seconds, so you can’t underestimate it even for a moment. We should seize the moment—carpe diem.
• Confidence in knowing that I can walk with a 10kg backpack.
• The experience of living in a tent. Honestly, it didn’t feel like I was outside my comfort zone.
• Believing in yourself, even when circumstances and things don’t seem favorable, such as dealing with AMS. You can overcome and get over it eventually. It’s important to keep patience, have faith, and trust the process—things will be fine in the end.

Things I need to learn/ work on :- My footwork, especially during descents and when crossing boulders.

I feel everyone should explore things outside of their comfort zone or engage in some new activity at least once in their lives. It could be anything from traveling to a place they’ve never been to, going on a weekend getaway, or even solo travel—the possibilities are endless. Travel teaches us invaluable life lessons. For me, trekking was out of my comfort zone, and there are many more trekking destinations yet to explore, which I intend to do. To unlearn and learn again.

One of the advantages and benefits of going in a group is the opportunity to learn from each other. We meet people for a reason, and I met 24 wonderful souls on this trip. Before reaching the base camp, I had only known a few of them, but meeting the rest for the first time; it didn’t feel like that at all. Everyone supported & took care of each other; it felt like family. We created memories that would last a lifetime. Thank you, team. Love and respect to all. Keep traveling, keep exploring…

• Postscript